Saturday, May 19, 2012

 

FAQ Minimize

ANSWER:

We offer the best and most economical silicone fine mist isolation medium for easy removal from Monotrac bases. PLEASE DO NOT USE PAM COOKING SPRAY OR WD40. These separating materials can leave a broken down pithy soft surface. Our fine misting silicone spray that leaves the stone surface very hard. A light mist of silicone works best, do not puddle it. Using the spray is very recomended when first learning to use Monotrac and how the models eject from they're bases.  However spraying is optional to use after you understand the ejection method and is also within 24 hrs of ejecting the model from the base.

 ANSWER:

Yes, dies can be reduced in shape and size without losing stability.  Because of Monotrac's unique, and patented, internally retained dies, the technician can reduce the size of the dies by grinding the circumference of the die to reach the desired size without loss of stability. As long as the die is supported between two or three cones it will not rotate or lose retention.

 ANSWER:

It just takes moments and is very simple to change a missed bite with Monotrac articulators. By heating the corner of the flex arm until the plastic relaxes and repositioning the bite then cool with air or water.  The best method is to flex the bite down into centric position and use a paint stripper heat gun (home Depot), directed perpendicular at the corner of the arm.  The plastic will relax into its new position, cool it and you're done  

ANSWER:

 The best approach is to remind the doctor to temporize with positive occlusal contact to prevent super eruption and therefore a high crown in the mouth and then it would not be necessary to clear the occlusion. If you do feel it necessary to clear the occlusion, we have found that tissue paper works for this process. Drape a small piece over the prep and seat the crown. One ply of tissue will raise the crown .25mm and two plys will raise it .50mm. We have also used the thin plastic from from a grocery bag.  For VSP and V2, you can make small shims made by folding aluminium foil to create various thicknesses. These can be placed between the dies and the base to raise the crown and therfore relieve the occlusion as desired.

 ANSWER:

Preparing the VSP Full Arch base is a must do important first step in the process. First, the model base or cone side portion is inserted into it's rubber basemold. Then pour the center core only (we use scrap stone that would normally be dumped).  Pouring the center core makes the base stiff and rigid to eliminate any flex.  The center core is isolated with any stone isolation material.  Now the model can then be poured up, set and ejected by tapping the center core area.  Please see the VSP Set Up Manual for further instruction.

 ANSWER:

The best way to describe a good ejection method for any Monotrac base is to grasp the stone portion of the model and tap the base out from under it by tapping the distal end blocks and a glancing angled tap on the front anterior ends of quad bases.  The key is to achieve an even lift off away from the base if new at this our Stoner silicone spray on bases prior to pour up will make it really easy.  After some experiance spray is optional.  The Anterior and Full Arch bases will reqiure even taping in the palatal area forward and back in a circular pattern to get an even lift off.  It is ok to tap on any stone flash covering over the palatal area.  This will break away and allow the model to lift away evenly and clean.  Even lift is the key.  

For the Quad VSP you grasp the model 40% of the way back from the front of the articulator and gently, but sharply, strike the screw boss on the distal portion of the articulator. The screw boss is the cone where you can place the screw for the Stop Head.

 ANSWER:

Prior to pouring, spray the insert lightly with our silicone spray (Stoner). After the stone sets, and you have removed the basemolds, hold the model about mid section from the front and tap gently but firmly on the posterior stop (the cone with the hole at the distal of the articulator). PLEASE DO NOT TRY TO PRY IT OFF. Other silicone spray brands can contain solvents that will etch plastic and will make it impossilble to eject the model 

 ANSWER:

For the occasional need for a model with opposing crowns.  The new Supermodel V2 was designed to do them all, Quads, Anterior and Full Arch on both arches.  the older version VSP can only do crowns on one arch only. 

 ANSWER:

First screw the Stop Screw into the Screw Boss at the distal of the articulator. The Screw Boss is the cone projection with a small hole in it at the back of the articulator. Turn the screw to with in 1/8 inch of complete seating and slide the flat portion of the Stop Head (the end with the little "ears" on it) on to the screw. When Stop Head is engaged on the screw and the screw is turned into the Screw Boss, trial close the Truss Arm to determine if the legs of the Stop interfere with the free closing of the Truss Arm. If the Truss Arm is pushed by the stop it may cause the articulator to close incorrectly. If the legs are interfering with free closure of the Truss Arm simply rotate the Stop slightly to one side to allow free movement of the Truss Arm.

 ANSWER:

There are several techniques for indicating contacts such as contact ribbon, indicator spray, China marker etc.  techniques for finding precise contact fit.  When using the original Horizontal Rod Monotrac Articulator it is important to use the clamp when checking final contact fit.  When sectioned correctly this clamped model has the same dementional interity as a solid model to produce precision contact fits. For the VSP or V2 it is typical vertical die removal as with pinned dies.  The most fantastic best method to indicate accurate contacts and occlusion I've have found is the Fred Miller method using his reactovator marking pen.  The special ink is marked in contact and opposing occlusion areas and is also fantastic for seating veneers back to the master model.  The ink reactivates it's marking capabilities by simply breathing moist air onto the ink.  this may sound a bit strange but works very well and is easy to use and the marks indicate precisely.  Great Tool !  

 ANSWER:

You May be sectioning the dies improperly. Make sure to stop your top cut at the fill line created by the base mold, no deeper. The clamping force axis must run through the snap break area, if you cut to deep from the top the clamp will force will bow and distort the contact demention. Also remember to put the clamp on with lighter pressure, do not over tighten.

 ANSWER:

IT MAY BE DEBRIS, STEAM CLEANING OR OVER SPRAY, to solve these problems; 1. DEBRIS, (dust, small chips) will cause model sections or dies to not re-seat and/or be loose fitting. TO AVOID DUST PROBLEMS, DRY THE MODELS. Use a model dryer or food dehydrator for 20 minutes to warm and dry the models. Cut dies and air blow away debris while the model is STILL WARM. Make sure to clean all debris from the internal cavities of the model before trying to reassemble. Our tube brush is a useful tool. We also recommend our cleaning station for fast, easy, complete debris removal by simultaneous suction and air blast. This will insure adequate debris removal. 2. DON’T STEAM CLEAN your dies. Steaming abrades the stone and will leave a loose fit. It is also time consuming. 3. SILICONE SPRAY; Use a light mist of silicone only. Avoid thick applications. Our Stoner silicone spray provides a light misting spray. Because some stones release better than others, spraying is optional as your needs require. DO NOT USE other types of separator such as Pam, WD40 and or anything else you might have in your pantry as these may cause other problems. 4. If you have tried all of these techniques and you’re still having debris sticking / removal problems / loose fits try using a different stone. There are a few brands of stone that seem to attract the debris or expand exccesivly when wetted. Some brands we have used without problems are Whipmix, Talladium, Econotech and Fuji.

 ANSWER:

When the method of the horizontal die is followed correctly you cannot get a more precise solid model contact.  Two reasons for having tight contacts:   1. Your may not be using the clamp correctly. When using the clamp, place it so the indentation on the end of the clamp rests on the Horizontal Rod and the Thumb Screw engages the dimple in the end of the model. If you have sectioned the dies correctly the snap break you left will be at the same centered elevation height as the line of force generated by the clamp. Then when you gently tighten the clamp it will pull the model together as if there were no cuts at all.  2. You may have debris keeping the dies from re-seating completely.  Also see the Horizontal snap broken die in Manuals section for proper die section technique and clamping method.  

 ANSWER:

As with virtually all model and die systems the cuts made by the technician must be straight and accurate. If you section a die in a fashion that leaves an overhang or creates an undercut then it is reasonable to expect you may have removal draw problems. One answer to this potential challenge is to use the Monotrac Proccessing Station with diamond disk die cutter to make die section fast, straight and accurate.  Our saw has adjustable depth of cut. Using the die cutter also reduces fatigue. After making these bottom cuts it is much easier to accurately make the top cut with a hand saw around the margin areas to meet the bottom cuts.

ANSWER:

Debris,debris and debris- It is very important after die section (especially when using a motorized cutting disk) that all dust and debris are removed prior to re-seating the model back onto any VSP, V2 bases or horizontal tracks. The most efficient method of dust and debris removal is to eject the model from it's base, place the models in a food dehydrator for 20 minutes until warm and dry. Section the dies with and handpiece diamond disk, or the Monotrac Processing Station while the model is still warm. Emmediatly air blast off all dust from the cone holes.  The debris will blow away very easily and completly.  Steam cleaning is not recomended but can be used.  Steaming is time consuming and can add secondary expansion if not dried quickly.  If your dies aren't seating completely then debris is present and must be managed more carefully.

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